Madras (Chennai) along with the distinction of being a Presidency City, has the second longest beach in the world, approximately 13 KMs. The Marina Beach, or the Marina, is a natural urban beach, one of the most crowded in the country. And pray what is a presidency city? The Britishers, in order to have better governance and administrative control declared some cities as presidency cities.
These presidency cities were territories whose sovereignty was directly under the East India Company and thereafter under direct rule of the British crown. Those where British had direct rule were termed provinces and those under indirect rule, the Princely states. These presidency cities had some unique features, even today, the High Courts of these presidency cities have Original and Appellate jurisdictions.
And interestingly, the High Court names of these cities have remained unchanged, despite the cities themselves having acquired new names. Oh! but I keep rambling. A Bengali trait, perhaps but certainly not easy to shed. Are we really concerned with the Original & Appellate sides, whatever they mean? Certainly not, we are not here to discuss British Territorial Administration. Not even the rechristening of cities. But we are connected with the Marina but not the beach, intriguing? Maybe not so much. Actually, Marina means a small port for private vessels and not for big ocean going ships. What I do want to share with my esteemed readers, is a secret, which Chennai holds deep in its heart. An astounding eating place which is a foodie’s delight. An abode, which most Chennaites, may not have even heard of! But then can one leave Buhari behind?
Chennai (Madras) as a Metro is peerless. It has a bustling port, handling 5.5 MMT of Cargo. Industrial hubs, Hosur and Sriperumbudur-Oragadam- the Detroit of India. Temples like Kapaleeswarar, Marundheeswarar, Parthasarathy and many more. It has premier educational institutions like IIT Madras, Loyola College, MCC, Madras Institute of Technology etc. A one of its kind armed forces training college – the Officers Training Academy (formerly OTS). Innumerable dance academies for Bharatanatyam which along with Carnatic Classical music institutions, keep the rich cultural traditions of the state alive. It’s a city famous for Kanchipuram Sarees, leather goods and world class hosiery. Its home to famous malls like the Express Avenue, Phoenix MarketCity, Forum Vijaya Mall, Chennai Citi Centre, The Grand Mall, Spencer Plaza, Ampa Skywalk and many more.
It has old traditional shopping centres like T Nagar, Pondy Bazar, Ranganathan Street, Richie Street, Anna Nagar, the list is endless. Chennai also has several book markets including those selling used/ second hand books. Quaint antique shops like the Old Curiosity Shop (yes named after Dicken’s novel), Rani Arts & Teak, Dr. Antiques & Old Coins. Flea markets – Burma Bazar, Rangathan Street – T. Nagar, Kalakshetra – Thiruvanmayur, Moore Market etc.; Chennai has it all. And who can forget the famous Madras Checks? A colourful plaid cotton fabric also known simply as Madras, derives its name from the colonial export centre of Madras. From the city it used to be shipped internationally from the sixteenth to the late twentieth century. Traditionally handwoven on pit looms with natural dyed yarn, it is used for scarves, wraps and tailored clothing. Madras checks found diverse markets across Southeast Asia, Africa, Europe and the Americas. It became embedded in indigenous cultural traditions of Africa, everyday clothing in Southeast Asia and the Caribbeans, as well as cosmopolitan fashion in the US. From its origins as a utilitarian fabric, the history of Madras checks is closely linked with that of transcontinental colonial trading, indentured labour, regional and cultural identity, and contemporary fashion.
Chennai is a sporting town as well. It is home to Chennai Super Kings, beautiful stadiums and is super passionate about Jallikattu. It’s a very complex, layered city. The inhabitants are intellectually oriented, erudite, well mannered, careful in conduct and passionate about Filter Coffee and their language. Tamil is the oldest language of the world! Well, Chennai also hides many enigmas in its bosom. It’s impossible to make a summary of it in a short written piece. Setting my ramblings aside, let me fix compass and nose to the alluring aromas of various eateries which dot the landscape of Chennai. I don’t claim that I can hold discourse Chennai’s numerous restaurants with a variety of fare on offer. Many are mistaken that the city offers exclusively Vegetarian fare. Therefore, I wanted to share with the esteemed readers about two of the best, non vegetarian restaurants – Buhari and The Marina.
Buhari, Mount Road, Chennai The place was started by Mr. A.M. Buhari in year 1951.He was the former Sheriff of Madras who had his schooling in Columbo, Sri Lanka. A man of several distinctions, he had a passion for creating food and went on to become a legend in the Indian culinary landscape. The restaurant has continued to serve guests for over seven decades now. It’s a must visit place for every foodie who happens to be in Chennai. The menu has several delicacies but its unique Biriyani takes the cake.
It’s claimed that the iconic Chicken 65 was actually invented here. The famous Samsa is a cute little take on the famous Samosa, only smaller in size and much tastier. It is less heavy and is sometimes served on the house, depending on what a person orders. Ceylon Egg Parotta is another signature dish of theirs. But what is most sought after is the Chicken/Mutton Biryani. This dish is quite distinct from the Hyderabadi, Lucknovi or Kolkata variant. The subtle taste can be found in every grain of rice and the fragrance is not overpowering. The boiled egg makes for added delight. It can be said to be of Chettinad style but has a really one its kind flavor. The Dhum Tea is served with delicate patties type biscuits and is a rare delight. Its admirable that the restaurant had been able to withstand many challenges and refused to compromise on its principles or the menu. Much of the recipes and offerings have remained unchanged over the years and held its own against changing customers’ palates and tastes.
The Marina, College Lane, Chennai The Marina in Chennai is a relatively unknown, fine dining, seafood restaurant. It offers a unique concept of selecting one’s seafood from a live counter even customizing the preparation style. The atmosphere of the place is cozy and intimate. Sometimes, with a long queue of waiting patrons for lunch or dinner one needs to be patient. But the wait is definitely worth it. The freshness of the catch makes dishes really yummy. The fact that one has selected a piece for oneself makes the whole experience unique and extra special. Even the style of preparation can be selected before the cooking starts. Though Mangalore, Kerala styles seem to predominate. Patrons can watch their dish of choice being cooked in an open kitchen.
The menu has a variety of fresh saltwater fish, crabs, prawns, and squid, all cooked to the guest’s taste. Tiger prawns and pomfret fry are must haves. There is also Cajun Grilled Prawns, Mud Crab with Singapore Chilli Sauce, Salmon Pepper Grill, Steam Bhetki with Tomyum Sauce and numerous other dishes. Chicken dishes are also aplenty. The cooking can be in North Indian, West Coast or Karaikudi Chettinad styles. Vegetarians can enjoy a number of dishes including Soups, Variety of Rice, Veg stir fry and curries. Accompaniments can be chosen from Malabar Paratha, Plain Rice, Ghee Rice, Vellai Sadam etc. All in all, it’s a place for a relaxed quiet afternoon or early night. These two Chennai outlets have been the food halts for generations of young and old, bachelors and family alike. They make for a fast or laid back sojourn. In the sometimes balmy weather of Chennai, the cool & quiet interiors are most welcome. Places where food rules and which invite people to indulge in the losing art of pampering oneself. But as the Danish proverb goes … God gives all birds their food but does not drop it into their nests. So next time friends, you are in Chennai, make a beeline for these twin sites.
(By Sidhartha Mukherjee)
