Delhi (Dehli/Dilli/Indraprastha) is a pretty ancient city. Indraprastha is likened to a city mention in Mahabharata. Historically, Dehli has been, from early 13th century to mid-19th century, the capital of Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire. Presently, it’s a conurbation of Villages, Townships and Minicities. Like many primordial cities, it is said to be home to ancient spirits, phantoms, demons, banshees, ghosts et al, which haunt it till today. Many Delhites firmly believe that the only way to live in the city is to make peace with them and co-exist. Folklores passed from one generation to next have ensured that some myths simply do not die down. Despite ghostbusters, science/logic aficionados and paranormal hunters the Delhi wraiths refuse to die down.
Amongst some of the most (in?)famous haunted places of India a good majority are in Delhi. The rich tapestry of historical events, palace intrigues, ways of cruel rulers and ruthless reins of foreign powers are rich grounds for sightings of apparitions, pishaches, jinns and their malevolent activities. Inherent gullibility, fear of seemingly inexplicable occurrences plagues gullible individuals, often leading to fear and reverence to such instances. Narration and sharing of individual tales, which has a rich heritage in India, is enough to build myths which are difficult to wipe away. Unscrupulous elements: – Ojhas, some Tantriks, Pandits and Fakirs etc. profess solutions to those impacted by evil forces. They also have a vested interest to further these ‘traditions’ and make hay while the sun shines. Anyway coming to some of the seemingly haunted places in Delhi (which are prominently touristy also), readers will find that they are widely spread, geographically as well as epochally.
The most popular ones are Jamali Kamali ka Masjid, Lothian Cemetery, Khooni Darwaza, Feroz Shah Kotla Fort, Malcha Mahal, Delhi Cantonment, Bhuli Bhatiyari ka mahal, Mutiny House, Chor Minar, Dwarka Sec – 9 Haunted Tree. There is no dearth of haunted places in Delhi, each with its own settings, background story, specific sensory feelings and experiences. One of the most haunted and interesting is – Agrasen Ki Baoli. This place being centrally located tourists and others often make a bee line for it. Rich in haunting stories it has special attraction for others. Baolis, are actually stepwells. These were water reservoirs, constructed in dry areas, they served as a source of ground water for drinking and other purposes. Capable of storing rain water they also acted as water harvesting devices. They usually have a series of steps leading to water tank at the bottom. Known for their architectural beauty and cultural significance, the government has made several efforts to restore & maintain them.
Agrasen Ki Baoli is a 60-meter long and 15-meter wide stepwell. Located on Hailey Road near Connaught Place, it is believed to have been originally built by members of the Aggarwal community, in the name of their ancestor, Agrasen. The architecture suggests that it was rebuilt in the 14th century during the Tughlaq or Lodi period of the Delhi Sultanate. The Baoli, has 108 steps, three levels of the stepwell are visible, each level being lined with arched niches on both sides. It is also flanked by a three-sided mosque towards the west. This location has been used to shoot scenes in Bollywood films, like : Kabhi Alvida na Kehna, Shubh Mangal Savdhan, PK, Sultan, Mom etc. The stepwell also appeared in an episode of The Amazing Race Australia 2.
The urban myth of its haunting is the result of many colourful stories spun around it. People said that the water collected in the well was completely black in colour and when people approached the black water in the well, they would be enticed by it and were compelled to commit suicide. They leaped into the well and later the water would rise up and spill over, oozing the blood of the victim. Although this mysterious black water seems to have dried up, there are legends that the stepwell is haunted by ghosts and demons which lurk beneath. Many also get a feeling that they are being followed. They can hear footsteps behind them (Echoes, due to architecture?). The place may also be having a creepy feel due to the bats & pigeons residing there. One of the visitors while sharing his experience, on the net, said: – ‘There was an inexplicable force which made me go down the stairs towards the brackish water in the pool. A pair of hands rose out from the water. These seemed to beckon me or maybe beg me for a rescue from drowning. I was fascinated, but remembered some of the stories I had heard. With a stupendous, conscious mental effort, I wretched myself away from the apparition and ran up the stairs. Then I saw a most devilish, hideous, demon like figure get out of the water and vanish into thin air with a frustrated screech.’
Friends, do you still want to visit the Baori? The power of human suggestion is huge. Emotional arousal can substantially increase it. But what’s a little something for a massive high? So pump up the Adeline and do a Dekho!….. By Sidhartha Mukherjee
